Which Is Proper For YOU? – Lovely With Brains

OK, so let me guess: You’ve been coping with breakouts, or redness, or these annoying darkish spots that simply gained’t fade – and out of the blue each product you Google has both azelaic acid or niacinamide in it.

Generally each. Generally blended with, like, snail slime and fermented mushrooms. This entire azelaic acid VS niacinamide debate is so complicated! And now you’re sitting there pondering:

• Wait… do I would like each?
• Are they secretly the identical factor?
• Which one is truly gonna repair my pores and skin?
• Why does each influencer act like each are magic however by no means clarify what the hell they do?

I acquired you.

That is all you want to learn about what azelaic acid and niacinamide truly do, how they’re completely different, if you need to use them collectively with out your pores and skin flipping out, and which one to incorporate in your skincare routine:

Azelaic Acid: What It Is And How Does It Profit Pores and skin?

Azelaic acid feels like one thing that may burn a gap by means of your countertop, however hear me out – it’s truly weirdly light. Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid (don’t fear, that’s only a science-y method of claiming it’s it’s method milder than Glycolic Acid or Salicylic Acid). It’s naturally present in grains like barley and wheat, and your individual pores and skin even produces it.

However the true skincare magic occurs in lab-made, stabilized variations, often in 10% or 15% concentrations. And whereas it doesn’t get as a lot hype as, say, retinol or vitamin C, dermatologists have been quietly obsessive about it for many years. Particularly for zits. And rosacea. And hyperpigmentation. And post-inflammatory redness. Mainly, in case your pores and skin goes by means of one thing? Azelaic acid is like, “I acquired you.”

Advantages Of Azelaic Acid 

1. It fights zits gently: Azelaic acid kills the micro organism that causes zits. However in contrast to harsher actives ( you, benzoyl peroxide), it doesn’t dry your pores and skin out or ship your barrier right into a full-blown meltdown. Bonus: it additionally gently exfoliates, so it helps unclog pores too — however with out the uncooked, flaky aftermath.  Research say that 20% azelaic acid cream is simply as efficient as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin — however method much less irritating.
2. It helps with post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme that helps produce melanin, which suggests it actively fades darkish spots, melasma, and PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). It’s like a bit pores and skin tone editor in a tube. Azelaic acid is clinically confirmed to scale back melasma and pigment irregularities, particularly when mixed with different topicals like glycolic acid or retinoids.
3. It calms redness and irritation: Received rosacea or simply super-sensitive pores and skin that turns purple when the wind blows? Azelaic acid is your new finest buddy. It has anti-inflammatory properties that cut back irritation, calm seen blood vessels, and assist reduce these small purple bumps that nothing else appears to the touch.
4. It gently exfoliates: Azelaic acid accelerates pores and skin cell turnover, which helps with texture, bumps, dullness, and clogged pores. However in contrast to AHAs or BHAs, it’s not going to go away your pores and skin purple and uncooked. You get the smoothing advantages with out the sting.
5. Secure for pregnant ladies: It’s one of many only a few zits and skin-lightening components that’s secure throughout being pregnant and breastfeeding.

Azelaic Acid Facet Results

Okay, so this half’s essential.Although azelaic acid is technically light, it can be annoying at first. Commonest reactions (particularly within the first few weeks):

• Tingling or gentle stinging
• Slightly itchiness
• Dryness or flakiness
• Slight purging (in case your pores and skin is congested)

Finest Azelaic Acid Picks

Listed here are the very best azelaic acid merchandise to deal with any pores and skin situations you’ll have:

• Blemicalm Azelaic Acid 15% Clarifying Serum £26.00): Loaded with 15% Azelaic acid and colloidal oatmeal, it helps deal with zits, soothe irritations, and lighten darkish spots. Out there at Facetheory
• Paula’s Selection 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): It features a contact of Salicylic Acid to unclog pores too. Out there at Cult Magnificence, Paula’s Selection, and SpaceNK
• The Unusual Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($12.20): A easy, no-frills components that simply works with out breaking the financial institution. Out there at Magnificence Bay, Cult Magnificence, The Unusual, and Ulta

Cease losing your money and time on stuff that doesn’t work. Click on on the picture under to obtain “Skincare That Works” and eventually get your finest pores and skin day – every single day.

Niacinamide: What It Is And How Does It Profit Pores and skin?

Niacinamide is a type of vitamin B (a flowery title for Vitamin B3, to be actual). That’s it. Nothing scary. It’s not an acid, it’s not exfoliating, and it’s not going to out of the blue soften your face off. It’s truly one of many gentlest, most versatile components on the market — which is why skincare manufacturers preserve placing it in all the things. 

Advantages Of Niacinamide

Right here’s what niacinamide does (backed by science and by each skincare nerd who’s ever gone on a Reddit deep dive):

1. 1. It calms down pores and skin irritation: Received redness? Blotchiness? Offended, reactive pores and skin that flares up the second you attempt one thing new? Niacinamide is just like the buddy who talks you off the ledge. It reduces irritation and helps soothe the drama. That is particularly useful for zits, rosacea, and simply common pores and skin crankiness.
2. It strengthens your pores and skin barrier: Consider your pores and skin barrier because the safety guard that retains the great things (hydration) in and the dangerous stuff (air pollution, micro organism, irritation) out. Niacinamide helps rebuild and reinforce that barrier by boosting ceramide production — and which means your pores and skin will get stronger, more healthy, and fewer prone to freak out when the climate adjustments otherwise you attempt a brand new product.
3. It helps with hydration: No, it’s not a moisturizer. However when your barrier is stronger and happier, your pores and skin holds onto moisture method higher. Pair niacinamide with hyaluronic acid or moisturizer, and also you’ve acquired a glowy, bouncy scenario happening.
4. It reduces uneven pores and skin tone and fades hyperpigmentation: For those who’ve acquired leftover zits marks or common unevenness, niacinamide might help fade that slowly over time. It doesn’t bleach your pores and skin (we do not do this right here), nevertheless it reduces how a lot melanin will get transferred to the highest layers – which suggests darkish spots fade extra gently and evenly. Medical research have proven that 5% niacinamide can visibly enhance hyperpigmentation and pores and skin tone after simply 4 weeks.
5. It regulates oil with out drying you out: For those who’re oily however delicate (aka the combo-skin nightmare), niacinamide is chef’s kiss. It helps cut back how a lot oil your pores and skin produces, so that you look much less shiny with out over-stripping your face like a harsh cleanser would.
6. It may cut back pore measurement: This one’s a bit controversial. Niacinamide doesn’t technically “shrink” pores (nothing actually can), however by bettering pores and skin texture, calming irritation, and lowering oil, your pores look smaller and fewer noticeable. And actually? That’s adequate for many of us. 
7. It really works for all pores and skin kind: Whether or not you’ve got dry pores and skin, oily pores and skin, regular pores and skin, mixture pores and skin, or delicate pores and skin, Niacinamide’s acquired you lined. It moisturises and soothes with out leaving your pores and skin a greasy mess.

Enjoyable reality: NOTHING diminished my pores higher and quicker than Paula’s Selection 10% Niacinamide Booster. I used to be shocked.

Associated: My Full Assessment of Paula’s Selection 10% Niacinamide Booster

Niacinamide Facet Results

Right here’s the excellent news: niacinamide is tremendous well-tolerated. Like, out of all of the energetic components in skincare, it’s one of many best on delicate pores and skin. You may often use it every single day, with different actives, and morning or night time, with out stressing.

That mentioned (and that is essential) extra isn’t all the time higher. For those who go too exhausting with the share (10%+), particularly in case your pores and skin’s on the delicate aspect, you may get:

• Gentle irritation
• Redness
• Itchy little bumps (uncommon, nevertheless it occurs)
• The notorious “niacin flush” – a heat, tingling feeling that’s innocent however freaky

If that occurs, don’t panic. Simply reduce. Strive a decrease proportion (2–5%), and don’t combine it with 5 different sturdy actives on the identical night time. Your pores and skin isn’t a lab experiment.

Finest Niacinamide Picks

Listed here are the very best skincare merchandise with niacinamide:

• Paula’s Selection Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42.00): It shrinks your pores, hydrates your pores and skin, and brightens the complexion. Plus, it’s stuffed with antioxidants (together with Vitamin C) that can assist you preserve these pesky untimely wrinkles at bay, too. Out there at Cult Magnificence, Dermstore, Paula’s Selection, Sephora, and SpaceNK
• The Inkey Listing Niacinamide ($6.99): On high of hydrating niacinamide, it additionally has hyaluronic acid so as to add moisture again into the pores and skin and Squalane to strengthen its protecting barrier. Plus, it brightens pores and skin and helps forestall wrinkles. Out there at Boots, Cult Magnificence, The Inkey Listing
• The Unusual Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (£5.00): Appropriate just for oily pores and skin, it reduces extra oil, helps deal with zits, and reduces redness and irritation. Out there at Magnificence Bay, Boots, Cult Magnificence, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Unusual, and Ulta

Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Pimples?

Quick reply? Azelaic acid may win this spherical. However niacinamide’s nonetheless pulling weight.

Right here’s the deal: Azelaic acid doesn’t simply calm zits. It goes straight for the micro organism that trigger it and tells them to pack their baggage. It additionally helps unclog pores and reduces keratin buildup (aka the stuff that results in whiteheads, blackheads, and cystic surprise-attacks). One examine discovered that 15% azelaic acid gel was simply as efficient for mild-to-moderate zits as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin, however with method fewer unwanted effects.

Niacinamide, then again, is like zits’s chill mediator. It doesn’t kill micro organism, nevertheless it calms irritation (so these huge offended spots don’t look so… volcanic), and it helps regulate oil manufacturing. Consider it because the zits prevention plan, not the assault mode. One examine confirmed that 4% niacinamide labored simply as effectively as 1% clindamycin (a topical antibiotic) for inflammatory zits, with no antibiotic resistance or dryness.  PubMed examine hyperlink

Use azelaic acid if:

• You’re breaking out with bumps and leftover marks
• You need one thing stronger however not irritating
• You’re not getting sufficient from “light” merchandise anymore

Use niacinamide if:

• Your zits is hormonal, gentle, or linked to grease manufacturing
• You’re already utilizing stronger actives and want one thing supportive
• You need an on a regular basis anti-inflammatory helper

Verdict: Use azelaic acid to wash up the chaos. Use niacinamide to maintain it from coming again.

Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Hyperpigmentation (Darkish Spots)?

Darkish spots (aka hyperpigmentation) could be annoying as hell. Particularly when the breakout is gone however the spot stays like a nasty reminiscence.

Niacinamide helps forestall melanin from being transferred to the floor of the pores and skin. It’s form of like intercepting a textual content earlier than it will get delivered. Your pores and skin’s like, “Nope, not exhibiting this pigment in the present day.” It brightens, fades unevenness, and works slowly and gently over time.  In a single examine, 5% niacinamide considerably improved hyperpigmentation and pores and skin tone after simply 4 weeks.

Azelaic acid, although? It blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, the one your pores and skin makes use of to make melanin within the first place. That’s deeper-level motion. It’s particularly good for cussed pigmentation, post-inflammatory marks (like after zits), and even melasma. A 20% azelaic acid cream was proven to be as efficient as 4% hydroquinone (a literal prescription brightener) in treating melasma, however with method fewer unwanted effects.

Use azelaic acid if:

• Your darkish spots are deep, cussed, or hormonal (melasma)
• You need one thing that works with out bleaching or irritation
• You’re already utilizing sunscreen day by day (which you ought to be anyway, tbh)

Use niacinamide if:

• You’re simply beginning out and need to gently even out tone
• Your pigmentation is gentle and post-acne
• You’re delicate to stronger components and want a slow-and-steady possibility

Verdict: Azelaic acid is the heavy lifter for cussed spots. Niacinamide’s your light, constant backup singer.

Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Rosacea (& Delicate Pores and skin)?

Let’s simply say it: most skincare isn’t made with delicate pores and skin in thoughts.

Azelaic acid is among the few energetic components that truly has a prescription model particularly for rosacea. It doesn’t simply calm redness. It helps shrink the infected blood vessels and clears these little under-the-skin purple bumps that nothing else touches. Research have proven that 15% azelaic acid gel considerably reduces inflammatory lesions and visual redness in rosacea sufferers, and it’s usually more practical than metronidazole, a standard prescription.

Niacinamide, although, is sort of a day by day hug in your pores and skin barrier. It reduces trans-epidermal water loss (a flowery method of claiming it helps your pores and skin keep hydrated) and boosts ceramide manufacturing. It doesn’t go as deep as azelaic acid in treating rosacea, nevertheless it’s an ideal match for pores and skin that’s reactive, dry, or simply bored with being irritated. Medical trials have proven that 2%–5% niacinamide improves hydration, reduces irritation, and will increase pores and skin resilience over time. 

Use azelaic acid if:

• You’ve gotten rosacea-prone pores and skin
• You get flushing, burning, or random irritation flare-ups
• Your pores and skin hates all the things, however nonetheless wants one thing to assist

Use niacinamide if:

• You’re simply usually delicate and need to strengthen your barrier
• You get redness from climate, over-exfoliating, or stress
• You want a chilled ingredient that gained’t trigger drama

Verdict: Azelaic acid is your “I’m having a rosacea flare-up” firefighter. Niacinamide is your day by day moisturizer’s dependable finest buddy.

Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Pimples Scars?

Let’s clear this up: If by “zits scars” you imply darkish marks left behind after breakouts (aka post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)? Each azelaic acid and niacinamide might help. However in the event you’re speaking about textured, indented scars, the sort that appear to be dents or raised bumps? Neither of those components will do a lot. Topicals can fade pigment. They will’t rebuild collagen deep within the pores and skin. For that, you’re issues like microneedling, lasers, or prescription retinoids.

Verdict: Neither azelaic acid nor niacinamide will repair indented zits scars.

Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Oily Pores and skin?

Let’s be actual: oily pores and skin is exhausting. You wash your face and two hours later it’s like your T-zone is auditioning to fry an egg. Your make-up doesn’t keep put, your pores appear to be craters, and in the event you skip your routine for even one night time? Growth! Breakout metropolis. So what’s higher for managing all that? Azelaic acid or niacinamide?

Niacinamide is the true MVP right here. It doesn’t simply deal with oil. It truly helps cut back how a lot oil your pores and skin produces within the first place. Research have proven that utilizing a 2% niacinamide formulation can considerably decrease sebum excretion charges in folks with oily pores and skin.

Translation: you’ll look much less shiny, have fewer clogged pores, and your pores and skin gained’t really feel like a slip-and-slide by lunchtime. Bonus: niacinamide helps tighten up the look of pores (no, it doesn’t shrink them – nothing actually does – however they give the impression of being smaller when there’s much less gunk and oil stretching them out).

Azelaic acid, then again, doesn’t straight regulate oil, nevertheless it does assist with what occurs due to the oil.

In case your oiliness comes with breakouts, clogged pores, or bumpy texture, azelaic acid gently exfoliates and helps preserve these pores clear. It’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and superb for greasy, acne-prone pores and skin. Simply don’t count on it to decelerate oil manufacturing itself -that’s not its factor.

Use azelaic acid if:

• Your oiliness comes with whiteheads, blackheads, or breakouts
• You want one thing to clear pores and calm irritation
• You’re oily and acne-prone

Use niacinamide if:

• You need to cut back oiliness on the root
• You’re on the lookout for much less shine, smaller-looking pores, and higher barrier perform
• You’re oily but in addition delicate and wish one thing ultra-gentle

Verdict: Niacinamide wins for precise oil management. Azelaic acid’s nice for the unwanted effects of oily pores and skin (breakouts, congestion), however in the event you’re bored with feeling greasy by midday? Niacinamide’s your lady.

Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Darker Pores and skin Tones?

For those who’ve acquired melanin-rich pores and skin, you already know: your pores and skin behaves otherwise – in the very best and most intricate methods. You’re extra vulnerable to hyperpigmentation. Each breakout leaves a mark. And method too many merchandise both don’t work or straight-up make issues worse. So let’s break down what azelaic acid and niacinamide truly do for darker pores and skin tones, and which one deserves a spot in your routine.

Azelaic acid is a big win for deeper pores and skin tones – particularly in the event you take care of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (aka these darkish spots that stick round endlessly after a breakout or rash). It really works by blocking an enzyme known as tyrosinase, which is concerned in melanin manufacturing. It doesn’t bleach. It doesn’t disrupt your pure tone. It simply stops the overproduction of pigment the place your pores and skin’s been infected. And it does it gently.

One examine confirmed that 20% azelaic acid was simply as efficient as 4% hydroquinone in treating melasma (a notoriously cussed kind of pigmentation) with out the cruel unwanted effects hydroquinone is thought for. Additionally: azelaic acid is much less prone to trigger rebound pigmentation or irritation (darker pores and skin tones are extra reactive to irritation, and irritation can truly set off extra pigment).

Niacinamide additionally works on pigmentation, however from a barely completely different angle. It doesn’t block melanin manufacturing. As an alternative, it prevents melanin that’s already been created from being transferred to the higher layers of the pores and skin (the place it turns into seen as a darkish spot). It’s slower, subtler, and extra of a prevention instrument than a therapy for deeper present pigmentation.

In a single scientific examine, 5% niacinamide considerably improved hyperpigmentation and tone after 4 weeks, notably in topics with Fitzpatrick pores and skin varieties III–V. Additionally nice? Niacinamide strengthens the pores and skin barrier, reduces irritation, and works fantastically in routines the place you’re layering stronger actives like acids or retinoids. It makes all the things else play nicer.

Use azelaic acid if:

• You’re coping with darkish marks from zits, shaving, or irritation
• You need one thing that fades pigment with out bleaching or irritating
• You’re vulnerable to PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and want one thing efficient however light

Use niacinamide if:

• Your pigmentation is gentle or newer
• You need to forestall new spots whereas bettering pores and skin tone over time
• You’re utilizing different sturdy actives and wish one thing to help your barrier

Verdict: Azelaic acid is the heavy-hitter for cussed hyperpigmentation in darker pores and skin tones – with out the danger of over-lightening or irritation. Niacinamide is a superb upkeep instrument, particularly in the event you’re engaged on brightening, oil management, or calming irritation in your routine. For lots of melanin-rich pores and skin varieties? The combo is gold. One fades, the opposite protects.

Can I Use Niacinamide And Azelaic Acid Collectively?

Sure. In case your pores and skin is coping with multiple factor (zits and darkish spots, oiliness and redness), the mix of azelaic acid and niacinamide can truly work higher than utilizing both one by itself.

They don’t cancel one another out. They don’t irritate one another. They usually goal completely different points in a method that makes them tremendous complementary:

• Azelaic acid clears clogged pores, fights zits, fades pigmentation, and calms irritation
• Niacinamide strengthens your pores and skin barrier, reduces oiliness, evens tone, and helps your pores and skin keep calm and balanced

How To Use Niacinamide And Azelaic Acid Collectively

Okay, so now that we’ve established azelaic acid and niacinamide is a profitable mixture that provides you finest outcomes, right here’s find out how to truly use them with out overwhelming your pores and skin or turning your routine right into a science experiment.

LAYERING TIPS

• You may apply niacinamide first if you wish to buffer potential irritation from azelaic acid, particularly in the event you’re new to actives or your pores and skin is delicate.
• In case your azelaic acid is in a thicker cream or suspension, apply that after your niacinamide serum. Lightest to heaviest is the final rule.
• Use them as soon as a day to start out. You may construct as much as twice day by day in case your pores and skin is loving it.

DON’T MIX WITH

• Robust AHAs (like Glycolic Acid or lactic acid) or BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) in the identical routine (it’s an excessive amount of)
• Retinoids on the identical night time except your pores and skin is used to it
• 1,000,000 different actives. Let this duo do its factor

Associated: Combine And Match: Which Skincare Elements You Shouldn’t Use Collectively

How Lengthy Does It Take to See Outcomes with Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide?

Niacinamide and Azelaic acid are each efficient components, however they’re not miracle employees.  Most individuals begin seeing ends in 4 to eight weeks. Nothing prompt, however completely well worth the wait.

• Within the first 1–2 weeks: your pores and skin may really feel smoother, however don’t count on main adjustments
• By weeks 3–4: it’s possible you’ll discover much less oil, calmer breakouts, and extra even tone
• By weeks 6–8: darkish spots begin fading, redness goes down, and your pores and skin simply appears to be like… higher

The Backside Line

Two of the very best skincare components on the market, azelaic acid and niacinamide aren’t attempting to do the actual identical job — and that’s what makes them such crew. Azelaic acid is your go-to for zits, pigmentation, rosacea, and mild exfoliation. Niacinamide is your calming, oil-controlling, barrier-strengthening multitasker.

In case your pores and skin is coping with a number of issues directly (which, let’s be sincere, most of us are), the mix of azelaic acid and niacinamide is an efficient therapy that may cowl far more floor than both one alone. They’re secure to make use of collectively, backed by science, and work finest if you’re constant and affected person. You additionally know what the very best skincare merchandise with them are, so that you’re all settled for higher outcomes.

About Gio

Hello, I am Gio. I am a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is pores and skin coach and author on a mission that can assist you obtain your finest pores and skin day ever – every single day. I bust skincare myths and debunk advertising jargon that can assist you determine what’s well worth the splurge and what’s finest left on the shelf – utilizing science, not hype. I additionally supply skincare consultations that can assist you create the very best skincare routine in your distinctive wants.