“Open the cuticles with heat water earlier than you apply conditioner. It’ll assist it higher penetrate your hair and make it stronger.”
If I had a penny for each time I’ve heard this recommendation, I’d be wealthy… Downside is, it doesn’t work! Let me clarify…
You Don’t Need To Open Hair Cuticles!
Like all junk science suggestions, this too appears to make a number of sense at first. Besides that cuticles don’t actually open. You can solely elevate them – and that’s one thing you wish to keep away from.
Right here’s why: the cuticle is the outermost a part of the hair shaft, the layer that protects it from injury. Consider it just like the shingles on a roof: they’re meant to lie flat and defend what’s beneath. When the cuticles are broken, hair turns into dry and brittle.
Each time you wash your hair, the water makes the shaft swell. This raises the cuticle, damaging it. The identical occurs while you comb your hair too harshly, rub it too vigorously or have some enjoyable or bleaching therapies achieved.
And as soon as these cuticles are raised, your hair’s mainly defenseless. Moisture is gone in a flash. Frizz is uncontrolled. And when you throw warmth styling into the combination? Say hi there to much more injury. Curly and coily hair (which naturally has a extra lifted cuticle) tends to be drier and breaks extra simply – there’s simply nothing holding the moisture locked in.
So when you’re considering heat water is doing all of your hair a strong by “opening” the cuticles, nope. It’s truly simply making them simpler to mess up.
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Raised Cuticles Don’t Make For Higher Conditioning
So as to add insult to harm, a raised cuticle doesn’t permit useful elements to penetrate contained in the hair shaft. That’d be too simple.
Whether or not an ingredient can get contained in the shaft or not relies on its dimension and form. If it’s too large, for instance, it stays on the floor of your hair. Some elements, like hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids, are sufficiently small to slide in. However many of the great things in conditioners (assume silicones, oils, and fatty alcohols) work by coating the hair shaft, sealing in moisture, and smoothing down the cuticle. They by no means penetrate your hair.
A raised cuticle is simply an indication of injury. That’s why, after washing your hair, it is advisable to use conditioner to assist the cuticles get again of their place.
What Really Helps Conditioner Work Higher?
A conditioner accommodates elements that may clean down the cuticles once more. They gained’t restore the injury down (hair is useless and, as soon as it’s broken, it’s broken for good), however, with its smoothing motion, it may well assist defend hair, make it really feel smooth and look wholesome and glossy.
In the event you really need your conditioner to work higher, right here’s what truly makes a distinction:
✅ Squeeze out extra water earlier than making use of conditioner, so it gained’t get diluted (sure, this occurs).
✅ Go away it on for a couple of minutes, so the energetic elements have time to coat your strands and clean every little thing down.
✅ Select the fitting conditioner in your hair sort. In case your hair is okay, go along with a light-weight system with proteins and amino acids to assist strengthen it. If it’s thick and dry, you’ll need one thing richer with nourishing oils and butters.
✅ Don’t skip a leave-in conditioner or serum. These create an additional layer of safety to maintain moisture in and frizz out.
The Backside Line
So, there you go. Subsequent time somebody tells you to “open” your hair cuticles, inform them no, thanks. Cuticles don’t open. They elevate when broken, and that doesn’t do your hair any good. Interval.